Ken Gargett

Publication: THE COURIER MAIL (Australia)
Date: 11 Jan 2005
Written by: Ken Gargett
Article: Flying High
Wine: Vinoptima Gewurztraminer 2003

 

…by far the most exciting Gewurz I’ve seen from the
New World and very much in the style of Zind Humbrecht…

 

“... The family winery was purchased by Hardy’s a few years ago and this allowed Nobilo to devote himself to a Gewurz-only vineyard driven by the pursuit of excellence.

 

He has spent many years in assessing the best clones, region and winemaking practices for this variety and now has an 8ha vineyard in Ormond, Gisborne, planted solely in Gewurz, despite NZ authority Michael Cooper saying such an undertaking was a risk, one that few local viticulturists would contemplate.

 

The winery is purpose-built and Nobilo uses a mix of stainless-steel tanks and German Oak ovals. There is no malo.

 

The major stumbling block will be selling a Kiwi Gewurz with no track record for $50 a bottle – surely the sort of price that only a few of the great Gewurz from Alsace, such as Zind Humbrecht, can fetch.

 

That said, Nobilo’s 2003 is by far the most exciting gewurz I’ve seen from the New World and very much in the style of Zind Humbrecht, though understandably with a way to go before reaching those exalted levels.

 

The wine is no shrinking violet - rich, ripe and powerful, with lychee, lavender and Turkish delight flavours. It does have a little sweetness but so do many of the best from Alsace and it is all the better for it. ….”